The Ultimate Guide to Bare Root Fruit Trees

A great way to save money is by planting bare root fruit trees and growing your own fruit at home. Not only can this save you in the long run on your grocery bills, but nothing can quite compare to the full flavor of a homegrown piece of fruit that you grew yourself. Deciduous fruit trees are shipped bare root and sold when they are fully dormant, having gone to sleep for the winter losing all their leaves..

There are many benefits to starting with bare Roots over container cultured trees such as larger, healthier root systems for a lower cost allowing you to plant even more. Bare Root fruit trees come with their own set of challenges too, one of which is that having bigger root systems means having to dig bigger holes to accommodate your tree. Whether you're planting a single tree or a whole Orchard, we’ve got you covered with the tips and techniques to ensure your bare root trees thrive!

Why Choose Bare Root Fruit Trees?

Bare root fruit trees are grown and sold during dormancy, offering several advantages:

• Larger Root Systems: Unlike potted trees, bare root trees retain their full root systems, promoting healthier establishment.

• Cost-Effective: They are typically less expensive than potted trees.

• Reduced Transplant Shock: Without the constraints of a pot, bare root trees adapt more easily to your soil.

Important Note:

You should plant your bare root tree as you receive them, as their roots are exposed to the elements. If they cannot be planted right away, be sure to keep the roots from drying out by temporarily “heeling” them into the soil (burying the root in a mound). Failure to plant bare roots promptly may lead to desiccation or other issues, which can affect the tree’s ability to thrive.

Tailor Varieties to Your Microclimate

While you may already know your growing zone, another thing to consider is the unique properties of microclimates within the garden. Northern exposures and lower elevations hold your property's coldest points, while Southern slopes are the hottest growing points on your property. Trees and other structures can create protection from prone areas. All these subtle elements can influence the chill hours your trees are exposed to. Choose varieties that will thrive in these nuanced conditions.

Select the Right Tree for Your Zone

Choosing fruit trees with the appropriate chill hour requirements ensures reliable fruit production.

Chill Hours

“Chill hours” refer to the total number of hours a fruit tree is subjected to temperatures at or below 45°F (7°C), which are necessary for the tree to bear fruit. “Chill hours” are essential to the success of your tree in order to signal to the plant when to drop its leaves and when to begin the flowering process. Not enough chill may lead to delayed or poor flowering, resulting in reduced fruit or even no fruit at all. This delayed wake up and fruit set can lead to weaker trees and fruit that is smaller and doesn't have enough time to sweeten up to its full potential.

Look up you areas average chill hours and select trees accordingly. If you have trouble finding your areas chill hours a good resource to contact is your local AG extension office.

While chill hours are essential for fruit tree development, some fruit trees also require sufficient heat to thrive and produce fruit. In warmer regions, selecting heat-tolerant fruit tree varieties is crucial for successful fruit production.

Examples of heat-loving fruit trees include figs, pomegranates, pluots and certain citrus varieties. By choosing trees suited to your climate, you'll ensure they receive the necessary warmth for optimal growth and fruit production.

For specific recommendations, check out Dave Wilson Nursery's fruit tree suggestions.I

Successive Ripening for Year-Round Fruit

To enjoy fresh fruit throughout the growing season, consider selecting varieties that mature at different times. By planting fruit trees that ripen at staggered intervals, you can extend your harvest and delight in fresh fruit all year long.

Planning for Year-Round Fruit

To simplify this planning process, we have developed a useful spreadsheet that is regularly updated, detailing different types of fruit trees and their ripening schedules throughout the year. This resource is excellent for gardeners who want to optimize their yields and guarantee a supply of fresh fruit all year long.

Click here to view our spreadsheet on year-round fruit production to help you plan.

Pollination Partners

Some varieties of apples, pears, plums, and cherries require a pollination partner in order to set fruit, while some are self fruitful by themselves. Make sure you plant compatible varieties whose bloom time overlaps to ensure proper pollination.

Pick the Right Rootstock

When selecting fruit tree rootstocks, the priority shouldn’t be on controlling the size of the tree (dwarf or semi-dwarf). While size control is important for space management, the most critical factor is ensuring the rootstock is well-suited for your specific soil conditions. The truth of the matter is even semi-dwarf can become much too large as they can reach up to 20 ft. For most people it will require pruning to be kept at a manual size. Rootstock determines how well your tree adapts to your soil and environmental conditions:

Drought-Prone Areas: some rootstocks have been developed for drought tolerance like Nemaguard.

Heavy Clay Soil: Look for rootstocks such as Lovell or Citation that thrive in dense soils.

For apple rootstocks that can tolerate poor drainage and moisture retention, consider M111, M7 or G11.

Alkaline soils, common in the West, benefit from rootstocks which handle higher pH levels like M111 for apples.

Acidic soils, found more commonly on the East Coast, might require rootstocks which can handle lower pH levels such as Citation or Lovell for peaches.

By selecting rootstocks that are adapted to your soil’s unique characteristics, you give your trees the best chance for long-term success, resulting in better fruit yields, improved disease resistance, and overall tree health.

Click here to access our rootstock guide for more information on rootstocks.

Teaming with Fungi

Many people like to pre-soak their trees to give them a final rehydration before planting. Consider adding mycorrhizal inoculants to your trees while soaking them in water as you prepare the planting hole. This approach not only supports strong growth forming robust root systems to increase nutrient uptake but also builds life in your soil setting the foundation of a thriving ecosystem. In addition, if you decide not to soak your trees you can also add inoculants to the soil later on after planting. Two of my favorite inoculants are Bush Doctor Microbe Brew and Bigfoot Mycorrhizae product line.

Site Preparation

Selecting the proper locations to plant your fruit trees is crucial for long-term success. Make sure your trees get around 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day for the best growth. Your soil needs to drain well, while still keeping some moisture because fruit trees need both air and water around their roots to thrive.

Test Your Soil

Doing a soil percolation test lets you find out how well your soil drains.

DIY Home Soil Percolation Test:

1. Dig a hole that's 12x12 inches.

2. Fill it with water and let it soak overnight.

3. Top it off with more water and stick in a measuring stick.

4. Check the water level every hour and write down what you see.

5. Check the drainage rate in inches per hour.

Perfect drainage: 1-3 inches per hour

Poor drainage: less than 1/2 inch per hour

Too quick: more than 3 inches per hour

For the best results, try testing in a few spots since drainage can be different in your property.

Amend Your Soil for Success

West Coast Soils: Commonly more alkaline, this type of soil typically exhibits higher pH levels. To make these soils more suitable for fruit trees that prefer slightly acidic to neutral conditions (approximately pH 6.0 to 6.5), it is beneficial to use soil amendments such as gypsum, sulfur, or aluminum sulfate to reduce the pH. These amendments can enhance nutrient accessibility and support robust root growth.

East Coast Soils: Generally tend to be more acidic. If you’re working with soil like this, you can boost the pH level by adding some lime which can help to balance out the acidity. Lime not only makes the soil better, but also makes nutrients more available. This creates a better spot for your fruit trees to grow.

When planting, dig a hole that’s twice as wide as the tree’s root system, and mix in up to 50% amendment to help the tree grow into your native soil.

Sandy or Rocky Soils: Increase water retention with products like Kellogg’s Gromulch.

Heavy Clay Soils: Amend heavy clay soils with a fine amendment like Kellogg Amend for better aeration and water penetration. The fine particles in the amendment prevent the clay particles from clumping together, to create channels for air and water to flow between the clay.

Adding compost will also create soil structure for enhancing nutrient availability and facilitating healthy microbial activity around the tree’s roots, but be cautious of over-amending as it will create too stark of a contrast between the amended soil and native soil which may hinder root expansion over time.

By amending the planting hole correctly and by adding the right amendments for your soil type, you encourage your tree’s roots to establish more quickly, improving its long-term health and growth.

Plant at the Correct Depth

When you plant your bare root fruit tree, make sure that you plant it at the right depth. Your goal is to have the root flare (where the trunk meets the roots) slightly at or above the soil line. Planting too deep can lead to the trunk rotting, while planting too shallow could leave the root zone exposed as dry.

If your soil has drainage issues or tends to pool water, plant your tree on a mound. This technique will allow the root flare to be slightly above the surrounding soil, which fosters better drainage and lessens the likelihood of root rot. The mound will also allow the roots to root in a well-draining landscape, which is great for heavy or clay soils

Labeling

Labeling your fruit trees is essential for tracking varieties. As a nurseryman, I have had countless people come to me who are no longer getting fruit set when a pollinating tree is lost for one reason or another and unable to identify what varieties they planted, making it hard to determine which pollinators are necessary. Consider creating a map of your orchard or using durable aluminum plant tags, which can be etched to avoid fading over time. These tags will not only help you identify your trees for future reference, but they can also help keep your planting organized as your orchard grows.

Caring for Your Bare Root Trees

Pruning for Success

Prune young trees to open them into an open vase shape or an espalier form, which will allow more sunlight to penetrate and ripen fruit. Proper pruning promotes airflow, reduces the risk of disease, and ensures balanced growth in multi-tree or multi-graft setups.

Deep Watering

Following the planting, it’s important to water deeply. This helps to compact the soil around the roots and remove any air pockets. Deep watering also encourages the roots to extend further into the ground, fostering robust root growth.

Initially, you should water deeply and leave the tree until it starts to wake up and leaf out. After that, water for at least an hour every week or two to establish strong roots. Avoid overwatering, which can suffocate roots and slow establishment. Keep in mind these are guidelines as all growing environments differ it is important to go out and check your soil make to sure you are watering when the plant needs it not just according to any set schedule as locations differ and seasons change.

Water Access Optimization

Plan for irrigation systems, like drip lines or soaker hoses, to ensure a steady supply of moisture, particularly during the initial growth phase.

Fertilizing & Mulching

Apply balanced fertilizers every 3 months taking the winter season off from fertilizing.

However when initially planting don't worry so much about fertilizing as the roots have to get established in their new environment.

• Early Spring (Easter): Well-balanced organic fertilizer.

• Late Spring to Early Summer (Mother's Day): On Mother's Day, don't forget to honor Mother Earth by treating your trees to a phosphorus-rich feeding.

• Late Summer (Labor Day): Well-balanced organic fertilizer.

A 4-6 inch layer of mulch can reduce your irrigation needs by 50% water through reducing evaporation. It also regulates soil temperatures, reduces weeds, and as it breaks down, it improves soil structure.

This will also reduce your weeding by 80-90%. Mulch the surrounding area of the planting so that it does not touch the trunk. Mulching is more important than amending the soil. Because once the roots grow through the fluffy good amended soil and reach the native soil they can have a hard time, so therefore when applying mulch and as it breaks down it helps the roots adapt to the native soil better. You want the trees to thrive in the native soil.

Protecting Your Trees from the Sun

Without the leaves to protect the branches and trunk in the winter sunburn is a real concern. Sunscald can harm the bark of young fruit trees, particularly in their initial years after planting. To safeguard your trees, you might think about applying a whitewash to the trunk. A simple homemade whitewash can be made by diluting white latex or water-based paint with water (about 1:1 ratio), which helps to reflect sunlight and prevent bark damage.

For organic growers, IV Organics 3-1 Plant Guard is a great option that is safe and effective for protecting tree trunks while being environmentally friendly.

Dormant Sprays for Disease Prevention

In winter, using dormant sprays is a crucial aspect of controlling diseases in your fruit trees. One to tackle is Peach Leaf Curl, which can decimate peach and nectarine trees. The ideal time to use copper or dormant spray such as All Season Oil or Liqui Cop treatments when the tree is dormant — this is usually late winter to early spring, before the tree’s new growth flushes. Copper sprays work well against Peach Leaf Curl by coating the new buds and leaves of the tree so that the fungal spores cannot infect it.

There’s much that can be done to prevent infection, and applying copper fungicide in the early spring, before any new leaves have come out and while the tree is still in dormancy, can decrease the chances of infection greatly, helping to keep the tree’s health and its ability to produce fruit intact. Remember to stick to the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the concentration and the amount to apply so you don’t injure the tree.

While dormant copper sprays are essential for managing Peach Leaf Curl, consider adding Revitalize to your disease control strategy. Unlike copper, Revitalize utilizes a living bacterial shield that colonizes leaf surfaces, helping prevent infection even after bud break. This minimizes the risk of damage to delicate new leaves from copper applications and provides ongoing protection throughout the growing season. By combining these approaches, you can effectively safeguard your orchard from Peach Leaf Curl while minimizing environmental impact.

Advanced Planting Techniques

Do you dig one hole or multiple holes? The Benefits of Planting Multiple Trees in a Hole

Multi-grafted fruit trees are an appealing way to grow multiple varieties in the space of just one tree; however, a major disadvantage is that the grafted varieties compete for nutrients from the same rootstock; as a result, it can be tricky to balance growth rates. So often that leads to one or two of those varieties stealing all the energy and eventually dominating the whole tree. But if you plant multiple smaller trees in the same planting hole, you can eliminate this problem. That way each tree is allowed to grow independently, with its own root system, leading to healthier, more balanced growth not having to compete with one another.

Planting Multiple Trees in One Hole

The method, popularized by Dave Wilson Fruit Tree Nursery, consists of planting up to four trees next to each other in a large planting hole and then pruning each so that the branches create a uniform structure, and each trunk occupies a quarter of the canopy to look like a single tree with four trunks. This is done in order to not only eliminate the different varieties competing with each other and balance the growth for each variety. This gives you all the advantages of a multi-graft tree, with extended harvest windows and improved variety, without the risks of uneven growth so one variety doesn't take over the tree. An additional benefit of this approach is that you can select the exact varieties you want for each tree, rather than being limited by the grafts chosen by whoever propagated the tree. One important thing to keep in mind however when planting multiple varieties together it is important to make sure that all of them have the same rootstock.

Maximize Sunlight and Heat

When planting your bare root fruit tree, take note of the branch structure. Position the side with weaker or fewer branches facing south. This ensures these branches receive the most sunlight, boosting their growth and helping balance the tree’s structure over time. Arrange earlier ripening varieties to face south or west for more heat, while later varieties face north or east to ripen slowly.

This concept of maximizing light and heat exposure for earlier ripening varieties can also be implemented in Orchard design layout to induce sweeter fruit in early ripening varieties.

Earlier Ripening Varieties: Face these grafts toward the south or west. These warmer sides receive more sunlight and heat, promoting faster ripening and sweeter fruit early in the season.

Later Ripening Varieties: Position these grafts toward the north or east. With less intense sun exposure, the fruit has more time to develop sugars gradually, producing flavorful harvests even in cooler conditions.

Enhance Pollination with Bee Hotels

Enhancing Pollination with Bee Hotels for Bob's Blue Orchard Bees (BOBs)

For larger home orchards, introducing bee hotels to host Bob's Blue Orchard Bees (BOBs) can significantly boost pollination and improve fruit yield. BOBs are highly effective, native pollinators, especially for fruit trees, as they are active early in the season when many fruit trees begin blooming.

Why Choose Blue Orchard Bees?

BOBs are solitary bees, which means they don't inhabit large colonies like honeybees, yet they still provide strong pollination capabilities. They are especially effective at pollinating fruit flowers, and unlike honeybees, they do not need a hive, which makes them perfect for home orchards. BOBs can operate in cooler temperatures, enabling them to pollinate during early spring when many other pollinators are inactive. Establishing Bee Hotels To draw in BOBs, place bee hotels in bright, protected spots within your orchard. Install them approximately 3-4 feet off the ground, oriented towards the south to ensure maximum sunlight exposure. Make sure the hotels are constructed from natural materials such as bamboo, reeds, or wood, featuring drilled holes that resemble the nesting locations of BOBs. Maintain the surroundings of the hotels in a natural state and without pesticides, as these substances can be harmful to bees. By providing BOBs with strategically positioned bee hotels, you will improve pollination, boost fruit yield, and help maintain the overall health of your orchard's ecosystem.

Final Tips for a Thriving Orchard

Keep an Eye on Soil Health: Amend soil appropriately, and don’t forget to test regularly to maintain an optimal pH for fruit trees.

Creating a thriving orchard all comes down to smart planning and the right techniques. With these helpful tips you're sure to be well rooted in success from the very start.

Investing in bare root trees not only saves money but also brings the satisfaction of cultivating your food, enriching your soil, and creating a sustainable, bountiful landscape for years to come.